In your case the bulb comes on, heats the surrounding air satisfies the demand and the thermostat shuts it off- but the mass of the bulb is still hot and will continue to radiate heat for some time. The second reason is a little harder to explain. First and foremost, I would never use one single bulb as my heat source, you are always one burned out light bulb away from a ruined hatch. I think in the well insulated foam box you have a 25watt bulb is going to be way to big. You may have to experiment for several days, moving thermostat closer, or away from the bulb. Some guys on here are using the bottom thermostat off an electric hot water heater, I tried it, but I could never get better than a 5* temperature swing. Use a high/low/current thermometer to get a true idea of temperature spread. To get a true indication of temperature control and range you are going to have to run it for several days. Tomorrow, I'm going to start it back up and let it run at least all day and try to get the temp up to around 99 to 100 degrees. I'm thinking to plug the upper holes that let heat out one at a time to build up those last few degrees. Now it's at 65% but I'm thinking that if I squeeze out some water, it should go down a bit. I added a small bowl with a wet sponge to provide humidity as we were getting about 45% with the light on. Not quite hot enough but we've got the heat under control. Now with the lid closed it's only getting up to 96 to 97 degrees. I drilled 3 1/4" holes in the end below the light bulb to let in outside air and use the heat of the light bulb to form convection and carry the heat across the box to the other side where I drilled three more holes to let the heat out. The heat now builds up much slower and easier to control So a quick run to the hardware store and I picked up a 15 watt bulb and put it in there. I could prop the lid open and kind of control the temp but it was either too low or too hot. The temp was building past 100 way too fast. So we plugged it in to see what it would do and it was quite apparent that the 25 watt bulb was putting out way too much heat.
I taped the sensor for the thermometer to the other end of the box just above the wire mesh. My wife Vickie got some extra 1/4 inch rabbit hutch mesh wire and made a platform to fit into the bottom and form a guard for the light. I duct taped the end of the extension cord to the middle of one end of the box and plugged in the light. We already had an old extension cord to plug the light socket into. We already the humidity indicator on hand, so it was off to the hardware store where I picked up a thermometer on end of summer clearance for $8, a couple of light bulbs and a socket to match that plugged into a wall socket. The directions we had called for a 25 watt light bulb and a digital thermometer. We cut out a plexiglass plate that we had down in the shop to fit into the lid so we can see inside and duct taped it down once we had the proper sized hole cut in the lid. Big enough for a bit more than a dozen hen eggs.
HOMEMADE EGG INCUBATOR PLUS
I'm not really needing anything big, so I found some directions on the net for making a small one out of a styrofoam cooler which also appealed to my inner cheapness and as having been a naval engineer in a previous career, it was simple too which is always a plus (less parts, less to go wrong).Īs we already had it, we decided to go with a little big bigger styrofoam chest that frozen steaks came in on a truck. Being cheap, I've decided to make my own incubator to hatch out some banty eggs.
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